A staircase divides this subterranean lair into two parts— a table in the candlelit dining room is preferable to one by the cacophonous bar. Chef Trevor Wilkinson’s innovative seasonal menu shows a fondness for luxurious ingredients. A rich pumpkin soup warms the toes, but truffle cream and oil bully its delicate flavour. Spicy tuna tartare is chopped into a line with cucumber and fennel balancing the heat. Succulent braised Alberta lamb shoulder is gratinéed under a savoury crumble crust and nestled in a bed of goat cheese mashed potatoes with the reduced pan juices. Warm beignets are stuffed with cool vanilla bean custard; a demitasse of chili-spiked hot chocolate is there for dunking. Most of the New World–heavy wine list comprises boutique or small-production wines. Efficient service, though food runners lack poise. Mains $23–$32.