After 25 years of bouncing around many restaurants, chef Colin Gallacher finally settled down in early ’07, taking over ownership here. Thinly sliced potatoes are scalloped into a tube around a fillet of organic black cod; the package is roasted till golden, sprinkled with salmon roe, and seated on a starburst of green and white asparagus spears, smoky artichoke hearts and tangy pickled pattypan squash. Beef tenderloin arrives in a gorgeous three-tiered tower of creamy asiago dauphinoise-style potatoes, the medallion of beef seared to medium-rare, and a sweet, red wine–braised forelle pear. A flash-fried sprig of thyme crowns the dish, while a delectable demi-glace completes the plate. An overcooked and mushy potato rösti is the meal’s only low point, marring an otherwise splendid seared Atlantic scallop with orange compote and silken butter cream sauce. House-made desserts include an absolutely dreamy lemon curd pavlova. Tasting menus, including a vegetarian option, available for $60, or $85 with wines. Mains $24–$32.