Lovers of Thuet’s infamous Alsatian food (and bombastic persona) shouldn’t be scared away by his restaurant’s aggressive new name. Patrons can still count on bistro classics like choucroute and cassoulet, or dishes chosen from a shifting menu de saison that showcases Thuet’s ability to marry the best local, seasonal ingredients with Gallic and Asian flavours and techniques. The sweetness of pear, quince and rich walnut cream complements lip-smacking sake-poached, walnut-crusted squab. A perfectly cooked scallop, stuffed with bread crumbs and bone marrow, reposes in a pool of sweet squash froth and anise-scented Thai basil pesto. Heartier fish and meat courses extend the delectable culinary marriage of France and Asia, especially the remarkable miso-glazed cod nestled in a bed of fragrant pandan and coconut milk risotto, and a superlative paccheri pasta sauced with delicate cubes of braised beef cheek and tongue rubbed with yet more fermented soy. A merely good elderberry jam–topped caribou loin with spaetzle precedes the first dessert course, a perfect sucrée of muenster cheese—flaky, buttery pastry laced with the sublime funkiness of Alsace’s most famous fromage. Ginger-chili ice cream atop a white chocolate risotto concludes the meal smartly. The wine list features many wonderful French and Californian bottles, but few are under three figures. Service, while ever cordial, sometimes falls short on menu knowledge. Mains $20–$30.