This bistro’s narrow dining room, with its dim lighting, wood panelling and eclectic soundtrack, is Queen West cool condensed. Chef Matt Slater, who is manning the kitchen while Rodney Bowers prepares to open his east-end cocktail bar, has put together a charming and well-executed continental menu. Crispy frogs’ legs with balsamic and watercress testify to the kitchen’s ability to transform simple ingredients into tantalizing mouthfuls. The balance of salty and sweet, crunchy and meaty is just right. Delicate sheets of house-cured salmon harmonize effortlessly with blood orange, fennel and red onion. A braised short rib with rich tomato sauce is an exemplary version of a modern restaurant standard. The evening’s only missteps are uninspired profiteroles with slightly icy chocolate ice cream and uneven service that still aims to please. A small, affordable wine list complements the menu. Mains $18–$31.