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RestaurantsBistro

The Rosebud starstar [?]

Reviewed by Toronto LifeThe eponymous toy sleigh hangs above the bar in this romantic spot. Chef Matt Cowan puts a meaty British spin on the menu with several inventive offal dishes. A wedge of pork brawn offers plenty of textural interest; Cowan pairs it with a soft-boiled egg in fried bread and sweet onion jam. Devilled quail eggs are more refined and have the requisite peppery hit. Brining a Cornish hen keeps the meat juicy, but the taste of salt is overpowering; its accompanying “orb of joy” is a red onion slow-braised to slightly insipid softness. Huge, hearty desserts include rhubarb-apple cobbler and a sticky toffee pudding. The wine list impresses, seeking out little-seen international gems and keeping markups reasonable. Gracious service. Mains $19–$28.

  • Closed Sunday and Monday
  • map marker #1
    669 Queen St. W. (at Bathurst)
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