Danny Grossman
How the modern dance guru, whose company performs at Harbourfront this month, would spend a single perfect day. Toronto on ... By Amy Verner
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This casual bistro has tarted up Kensington Kitchen’s old premises with plush red banquettes and flattering candlelight. Chef-patron-co-owner Laurent Brion proposes a classic bistro menu. Coarse, nut-studded duck terrine crumbles under the knife, its mild fatty flavour spiked with cornichons, Pommery mustard and port jelly. With main courses, textures aren’t as assured. On this night, rabbit, served on the bone, is a tad less than tender in a tangy dijon sauce with broad tagliatelle. Lip-coating rosemary jus coarsens a well-timed rack of New Zealand lamb. Attentive servers announce sweet vanilla crème brûlée or a lemon tart with just enough acidity for dessert. The wine list has something to satisfy every budget. Mains $20–$32.
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