Luxe, refined intentions are manifest in this two-tiered space of whitewashed brick, skylights and hardwoods. Though many of the kitchen’s contemporary creations are equally pretty, the combinations fall flat at first forkful, despite the best efforts of trendy ingredients (truffle oil, blue cheese, green tea and the like). A block of yellowfin tuna tartare, with coriander cress, won ton chips and candied ginger, tastes only of sesame oil. Full-flavoured tagliatelle restores confidence: smoked bacon, leeks and a light but creamy white wine broth add interest to boozy chicken breast and al dente noodles. Triple A tenderloin gets a boost from luscious port jus, a mountain of blue cheese–garlic mash and über-sauced sautéed Swiss chard; baby carrots and asparagus spears struggle to mitigate the bold flavours. The Old and New World wine list gathers vintages for all palates and most wallets.