West-enders have zealously tried to keep this eight-year- old restaurant a secret, to no avail—it’s always crowded. Classy simplicity reigns, from the decor to the paper menu offering not just apps and entrées, but something in between called “other lovely things.” Candy-sweet popcorn seedlings and purple basil sprouts intersperse other Cookstown greens, delicately dressed in a gewürztraminer vinaigrette and matched with red wine–poached pears and cumin-spiced almonds. Five fat honey mussels from the Gulf Islands are lined up on low pedestals of coarse salt, each one luxuriously bathed in an icewine and shallot broth. The bracing, nutty edges of a parsnip purée lift seared scallops to a new realm, the dish made complete by woodsy maitake mushrooms and verdant splashes of Swiss chard. A pistachio, mango and mint crust adorns a meaty rack of lamb, coupled with fingerling potatoes and tri-coloured turnips, all painted in a rich, finger- licking lamb jus. French toast throws off its plain Jane reputation and lands on this dessert menu as a triumph of decadence, drizzled in a Baileys dulce de leche. Sinful house ice creams (vanilla-pomegranate, blueberry-ginger, plum-molasses) threaten to steal the dessert show. The wine list reveals thoughtful pairing, the majority available by the glass and bottle. Mains $17–$36.