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RestaurantsBistro

Reds Bistro and Wine Bar

Reviewed by Toronto LifeReds, the Adelaide bistro owned by SIR Corp. (the behemoth behind Jack Astor’s), has always flown well under the foodie radar since opening in 2001. Yet it’s consistently an exciting place both to eat and to drink. At lunch it’s packed with power brokers and on any given weeknight the bar is three deep with grape-savvy suits taking advantage of one of the most extensive selection of wines by the glass in the city—up to 80 bottles are open at a time. Now five years in charge, executive chef Michael Steh continues to wow with intricate compositions and tightly focused flavours. He ups the ante on the typical beet salad by featuring the root both raw (sliced paper-thin) and pickled, a beautiful contrast in taste and texture; moist, lightly smoked trout and freshly grated horseradish complete the plate. Rabbit is cooked three ways–stuffed-saddle, juicy smoked kielbasa and a crisp confit croquette—all sauced with a gorgeous jus, buzzing with earthy morels and the briny pop of Triple Crunch mustard. Desserts live up to the savoury dishes with a terrific poppy-seed cake soaked in tres leches milk and enlivened with tangy passion fruit curd and seeds. Service is first-rate, though it often crosses over from classy to cheesy-chummy. Mains $18–$39.

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