Even on Tuesday nights, the simple, yellow-walled room is jammed—all of Rosedale seems to use the Provençal bistro as its auxiliary living room. The charming maître d’ and owner, Georges Gurnon, is a good part of the reason: at once impeccably mannered and disarmingly casual, he can hear a dinner knife drop from 20 yards, appearing seconds later with a replacement, having pulled out chairs and air-kissed a couple of regulars at the door along the way. And the kitchen’s smart bistro cooking doesn’t hurt. From a broad menu—replete with such classics as cod fritters, steak tartare and fish soup—tender, house-made ravioli stuffed with escargot are beautifully peppery and earthy atop sage-kissed brown butter. Expertly pan-fried calf’s liver and lardons are sided with exceptionally crispy fries and simple seasonal veg. The wine list lacks depth, though it offers affordable options. Mains $14–$23.