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RestaurantsBistro

Oliver and Bonacini Café Grill star½ [?]

Reviewed by Toronto LifeAs Bayview Village’s busiest restaurant, the prototype for Oliver and Bonacini’s mini-chain draws everyone from cutlery-throwing children to early-bird retirees. The long menu is so full of brand swagger—almost everything is “classic,” “original” or “signature”—you’d think O&B invented grilled calamari. But more often than not, the kitchen delivers the goods. Dairy-free mushroom soup has a deep, earthy flavour. In mains, sesame-crusted tuna is fanned over a green mango salad that’s vibrant with fresh herbs, crispy noodles and cashews. Only the burger disappoints: the bun is too big and the meat is too dry. Niagara is a big player on the wine list; plenty of bottles are under $45. Service is on the obsequious side of chummy. Mains $12–$27.

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