Open till 2 a.m. most nights, the laneway patio is an off- Yorkville scene of its own with a serious cocktail culture. The menu is a comedy of spelling errors, but some of that originality spills onto the plate. Chewy, tasty conch and crunchy leek are tossed in a cream sauce, then returned to a whelk shell for service. Octopus, frisée and big chunks of watermelon unite as a salad, the flavours dominated by pungent black olives. Three tiny Mason jars hold a soft aspic-capped chicken liver–cognac pâté, pickled onions, and cornichons and dijon. Mains triumph when at their simplest. An exceptionally thick slab of veal liver, floured and fried, sides soft apple wrapped in bacon. A generous pickerel fillet is perfectly timed and served with sliced potatoes and grilled lemon. Beef tenderloin takes its cue from breakfast, sharing the plate with a poached egg and spinach. Mains $19–$29.