Etobicoke is lucky to have this room, and the neighbourhood diners who pack in every day of the week know it. Classic bistro is the goal. A thick slab of chunky country pâté of pork, veal and chicken livers brings a crock of tarragon-spiked house-pickled cornichons, onions, carrots and peppers. Wonderfully dark and intense fish and shellfish soup (contents vary) is infused with the flavour of roasted shells, a dish of creamy garlic rouille on the side. A merlot deglaze, with thyme, shallots and herbes de Provence, sauces eight perfectly pink lamb ribs seared on the grill and then roasted. The confit-cured leg of a well-fed duck has gorgeously buttery flesh and crunchy skin. A generous glug of Cointreau ennobles a rich but routine chocolate mousse. Service is knowing and brisk. Mains $13.50–$19.50.