It’s everything a bistro should be: a cozy French cocoon with a small open kitchen, few tables and a chef highlighting the best seasonal ingredients. One even­ing’s warm amuse of Ontario wild leek flan with a drizzle of deep caramel sauce arouses interest, then a divine heirloom tomato salad sees multicoloured low-acid wedges arranged simply with pickled onions and an olive oil emulsion. An earthy salad of fiddleheads with wild leeks and warm saffron–piquillo pepper dressing also hits the right notes. Well-timed magret of muscovy duck sits upon a crunchy rösti and is touched with a candied cherry zest and sage glaze—a tad too sweet. Desserts include old favourites (brûlée, tarte tatin, tarte citron); a crunchy and smooth flourless chocolate concoction takes the cake. Approachable wine list shows Ontario and French nepotism. Servers care but are busy. Mains $22–$32.