The tiny entranceway opens up into a large, high-ceilinged room, making it feel like you’re stepping through Alice’s looking glass into a cozy, whimsical world. The lighting is just so; table linens are scattered with pebbles; and quirky paintings in soft pastel colours adorn the white walls. The food is equally charming, offered on a short, seasonal menu, with no more than half a dozen mains. Thick batons of grilled Berkshire pork belly (the fat so ample it wiggles) possess rich, smoky flavour cut by the pleasantly bitter frisée tendrils sharing the plate. A daily special of hand-hewn pappardelle is bedecked with moist monkfish sautéed in butter, fresh shucked clams and diced chorizo. A light, unobtrusive white wine sauce with fresh herbs and tomatoes pulls all the notes together beautifully. Banana crumble arrives piping hot, devilishly rich and creamy. The house boasts a unique wine list that’s carefully edited and navigated by expert servers. Weekends are often jammed, however, so expect the most attentive service on weeknights. Mains $28–$40.