The room combines easy diner style with candlelight and cushioned banquettes. Levesque himself works the stoves—and runs the occasional plate—during both the weekend brunch blitz and the quieter buzz of weeknight suppers. His menu features whatever is locally in season, prepared in simple but innovative ways. To begin, four big, salty-rich grilled sardines need nothing more than cucumber-tomato salsa and a lemon wedge for balance. A bundle of green asparagus covered with olive oil–toasted bread crumbs, rosemary and two slices of melting gorgonzola attests to Levesque’s worship of springtime’s finest vegetable. Hanger steak could be sliced more thinly to avoid chewiness, especially when it rests on smooth chive mash, oven-roasted plum tomatoes smothered with mixed herbs, and a rich, grainy mustard jus. Even more straightforward is one even­ing’s creamy risotto, replete with chives and coarsely grated pecorino romano. Mains $15–$24.