Imminent renovations will give the entrance and convivial bar a more discrete identity, but the cavernous dining area will stay the same—a former factory taken back to wooden beams and warm red brick. Former sous Mike Wilson is now chef in the huge open kitchen, his menu a fairly classic bistro manifesto laden with steak tartare, a charcuterie platter and duck confit. One innovation brings flights of three appetizers paired with wines: fat, juicy, bacon-wrapped medjool dates with an aftertaste of cabrales blue cheese; a stew of tender pulled rabbit and earthy lentils (marred by fragments of bone); and chewy, salt-crusted slivers of very rare skirt steak marinated in sherry. Tasty bresaola and shaved parmesan join crunchy grilled red onion atop a mountain of bittersweet treviso and arugula in a tangy vinaigrette. Mains include exem-plary Arctic char, crisp-skinned and cooked medium rare with perfectly textured roasted cauliflower, pearl onions, flecks of smoked bacon and soft leek; caper brown butter completes this well-devised dish. “Three little pigs” is a changing triptych of pork dishes: the shoulder, perhaps, braised to tenderness in a reduced jus with diced squash; a chunk of bratwurst with lightly pickled cauliflower; a delicious pork belly braised in thick, rich almond milk. Cheese Boutique cheeses (some eight on offer, each matched to a specific wine) are more alluring than the ice cream profiteroles. An exceptional wine list of rare global treats and bargains. Fluent, confident service. Mains $23–$39.