Restaurants › Bistro
Crème Brasserie
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- 162 Cumberland St. • View on map »
- 416-962-7363
Are old-school bistros the new Firkins? The formula—steak frites, crème brûlée, Piaf belting “Non, je ne regrette rien”—is as predictable in most bistros as “Wasn’t That a Party” is in their faux-Irish counterparts. The execution, nine times out of 10, is every bit as rote. But for some reason, we’re still charmed by fake francophilia. And so this new Yorkville boîte (to borrow another bistroism), with its enormous patio, casual-elegant interior and smiling chef (one of the last in the city to wear an 8-inch toque), will likely find plenty of fans. To be fair, there are far worse places to eat. The octopus salad is nicely tender, tossed with kalamata olives and pine nuts dressed in meyer lemon dressing; the wild mushroom crêpe, complete with crisp asparagus and a nicely balanced deglaze, would do any hotel chef proud. A summer gazpacho, meantime, is Fannie Farmer simple: tomatoes, some peppers, a bit of cucumber, onion, seasoning and oil, blend. It’s fine. The steak in steak frites, by contrast, is as bland and chewy as day-old Dubble Bubble; the fries are good though, especially for sopping up the shallot and red wine jus. Dessert brings a sticky toffee pudding that’s still cold in the middle. Ninety seconds after it’s returned to the kitchen, it’s back, microwave hot now, but feeling like sloppy seconds. Service, by middle-aged waiters in white shirts and bow ties, is professional, if a little perfunctory, and the management isn’t always great with details: doggie bags, for example, are sent out in white plastic Kitchen Catchers, knotted at the top like yesterday’s trash. Mains $21–$42.
- Closed Sunday
- Outdoor dining
162 Cumberland St.
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