Locavores steadily brave the seedy side of Parkdale for their carnivorous fix supplied by nose-to-tail master Mark Cutrara. The meat comes from ethically minded farmers and is butchered in-house by Ryan Donovan, whose considerable talents shine on the charcuterie plate. Arranged like a painter’s palette, the platter features gossamer petals of prosciutto, peppery coppa and a terrific terrine studded with succulent pig’s tongue and crunchy ear. Less care, however, goes into saccharine chilled corn soup that slithers down like crème anglaise. Entrées change daily according to the evening’s star animal. One night, superlative beef from Dingo Farms in Bradford arrives in three guises: house-cured bresaola, a juicy beer-marinated sausage and cylinders of uncommonly flavourful tenderloin. Baked Alaska is a ménage à trois of smooth vanilla ice cream, airy sponge cake and luscious charred meringue. The wine list rewards patriots with offerings from such lesser-known Niagara vintners as Kacaba and Calamus. Servers are well versed on both food and drink but struggle with a full house. Mains $18–$38.