A romantic evening in this rambling old house is an anachronism nowadays, when raucous restaurants are the norm. With Michelle Barnsteiner on the floor and husband Herbert in the kitchen, it feels like the country house of two welcoming friends. Although the menu plays it safe with standards from France and Italy, each dish is expertly prepared and plated. Without cream and starchy filler, lobster bisque is light yet packed with briny flavour; sweet chunks of lobster and tender cauliflower florets lurk beneath the soup’s surface. Australian rack of lamb is carved into rosy chops and criss-crossed over a portobello mushroom potato cake; rosemary jus provides a sapid moat. Dazzling desserts include a delicate lemon tart paired with passion fruit semifreddo, caramelized pineapple and a lemon balm sprig as a flavourful, harmonious garnish. The well-priced wine list favours the New World. Service is efficient, though a little stiff. Mains $19–$29.