The formula seems so simple, in retrospect. Move into a proven space (three rooms, 120 seats) with a simple but pleasant decor (white walls and dark wooden wine cabinets). Take no reservations but leave one room as a convivial bar so the party can begin even without a table. Put together an inexpensive menu of French and Italian bistro dishes and a 55-bottle wine list, then hire seasoned professionals to keep the service running. Bingo. Coquine has been packed since it opened in fall 2007 and is now the painfully noisy rendezvous of choice for smart, thrifty north Torontonians. Foodwise, things are hit-and-miss. A handful of chopped parsley is not enough to refresh a hearty onion soup slicked up by a huge, slippery gruyère crouton. But a finely julienned slaw and a tangy rémoulade sauce are just the ticket for a crisp, greaseless fritto misto of juicy halibut, shrimp, chewy calamari and salmon. Individually portioned cassoulet has been reheated too often: the beans are burnt, while the duck confit and chunks of lamb are inedibly dry. Pastas are a far better choice: for instance, wild mushrooms in a rich white truffle oil cream sauce layered with delicate, soft pasta sheets, sun-dried tomatoes and spinach. Sturdy flourless orange-almond cake is delectably moistened with sweet lime crème fraîche. Mains $10–$27.