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RestaurantsBistro

Coquine star [?]

Reviewed by Toronto LifeCreamy walls, dark wood and art deco signage may conjure Paris’s left bank (one server’s fishnet stockings help, too), but the crowd in the bar area is decidedly Yonge and Eg. Those who settle in for dinner—under the canopy outside or in one of two dining rooms—find traditional, well-executed bistro fare. Onion soup is dark and beefy, with chunks of onions, soaked bread and a thick mantle of gruyère. An eight-ounce flatiron cut, served with truffle oil, makes a model steak frites; the golden, parmesan-dusted frites are ideally crisp. Halibut baked in parchment delivers flavour and moisture. A dense flourless almond-orange cake with tangy lime crème fraîche and berries is worth the calories. Service is solidly pro, but the wine list is barely sufficient. Mains $16–$32.

  • map marker #1
    2075 Yonge St. (at Manor Rd. E.)
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