Taking its name from owner-chef Rodney Bowers’ continuing enthusiasm for Citizen Kane, the hot, noisy room sets a new neighbourhood standard. Painted mirrors and stained glass enliven white walls; an enclosed sidewalk patio has already become Leslieville’s primo rendezvous. Bowers is a rarity, a Toronto chef prepared to load German dishes into his cannon: hence first-class pork schnitzel on the bone, crowned with a fried egg and an anchovy; lightweight spaetzle with brown butter and herbs; and dainty veal croquettes with a refreshing tomato-caper salsa. Paired with a wet slaw and scrumptious corn bread, ribs are tender under a thick, anise-spiked glaze (but why are they served at room temperature?). A lovely caprese salad presents creamy mozzarella with heirloom tomatoes, basil and arugula. Soft house gnocchi are tossed with rabbit ragoût and fresh peas. Side vegetables need more work: roasted aubergine is juicy but undercooked in a tomato, onion and cumin sauce. A small but well-crusted strip loin, not quite rare as ordered, is paired with a chintzy garnish of fingerling potatoes. Freshly made shortcake with sour cherries and whipped cream is to die for. Excellent coffee. A small wine list is priced to please, but the list of beers offers serious competition. Mains $15–$23.