Decked out in safe, suburban beige, this family-run bistro in Pickering draws a food-savvy crowd looking for an alternative to the area’s ubiquitous chain restaurants. A long, ambitious menu of trendy bistro fare (think calamari with pomegranate, or lamb with Latin flavours) challenges the kitchen. Spinach-fennel soup is a silken emerald purée, but its one-dimensional taste is curiously redolent of neither vegetable. House-made lobster-shrimp dumplings are crispy, plump, soy-drizzled won tons with subtle lemon grass and warm, subtle vanilla notes. From the weekly specials, beef two ways sets a tough grilled sirloin atop a hearty beef and red pepper ragoût spoiled by the overwhelming flavour of rosemary. An enormous, fall-off-the-bone-tender lamb shank comes braised in a complex chocolate-infused sauce that is lick-the-plate good. Terrific house-made desserts include a blueberry–passion fruit tart in a rich shortbread crust, and addictive banana bread pudding. Predictable wine list. Friendly, unpolished service. Mains $17–$30.