Renovations to this cozy Summerhill stalwart brought a new bar, hardwood floors, leather banquettes and glass-fronted wine cabinets. In an open kitchen, owner Jude Patrick Jacob and his brother, chef Bennet Jacob, prepare pizzas, pastas and 10 meat and fish mains. Impossibly tender, cherry red beef carpaccio melts in the mouth. Ripe bartlett pear teams perfectly with a mound of baby arugula tossed with toasted walnuts and chunks of salty roquefort in a honey–poppy seed mustard dressing. House-made lamb sausages, delivering rich gaminess, arrive with noxiously bitter rosemary veal jus. Garam masala–spiced lentils provide pleasing accompaniment. Ahi tuna, seared perfectly rare and crusted with black pepper and sesame seeds, sings under a drizzle of honey-ginger-balsamic glaze, with wasabi on the side. Smooth servers, flustered maître d’. Wine list starts at $37. Mains $18–$27.