Restaurants GuideBistro

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Reviewed by Toronto Life
  • 461 King St. W. (at Spadina) View on map »
  • 416-598-4730
Editorial Review

Sharing a name with famed Hungarian-born photographer Brassaï, this spot offers appropriately gratifying bistro fare with inspired accents. On one evening, a crab cake, plump with South Pacific meat in a sweet-pepper rouille, strikes a creamy balance between accompanying pickled jalapeños and smoked pepper rémoulade. A quenelle of flavourful steak tartare delivers the perfect zing of dijon and minced shallot, though it’s desperately in need of salt. A succulent and crispy leg of duck confit comes with light frisée salad, crispy potatoes and mushrooms. Grilled perfectly rare as ordered, a flatiron steak is served with caramelized shallot jus and yukon gold frites—too bad about the unfortunate side dish of over-salted creamed spinach. House-made desserts are divine. A deep wine list, featuring many options from France, has dozens of excellent bottles for less than $60. Mains $18–$29.

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