A year after his Dundas West temple to charcuterie and offcuts of meat became an instant hit, chef Grant van Gameren’s boyish face still wears that too-cool-for-cooking-school calm. Van Gameren has become famous for his cured meat, and fair enough—he makes 40-odd types of charcuterie, including lavender and sake–cured capicollo, and sheets of lardo that are as thin and translucent as vellum. But the hot food—all of it made on a four-burner electric stove—steals the show every time. Crispy sweetbreads, say, that are poached in milk, then smoked out behind the restaurant and served with cauliflower-studded polenta. The menu is bold (anything featuring brains here is an epiphany) in spite of a few noble misses (the porcini reduction on the sweetbreads plate tastes like Oxo cubes). With apologies to Yitz, Pancer and, yes, even Caplansky, the tongue sandwich here is the best deli food in town. Van Gameren is a more interesting, more consistent chef than just about anyone else working in Toronto right now, and he has also set a new tone for dining in the city. Co-owner Jen Agg’s masterful mixing could make an exceedingly happy drunk of almost anyone; the wine list has personality but not a lot of depth. No reservations; cash and debit only. Mains $10–$22.