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Restaurants Guide › Bistro
Bistro 990
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- 990 Bay St. (at Phipps St.) • View on map »
- 416-921-9990
Editorial Review
Low vaulted ceilings and dimmed lights lend the main-floor dining room—perennially popular with locals and visiting celebs—the brooding charm of a French wine cellar. While selecting a bottle from the affordable, international wine list, nibble on the crusty homemade baguette. Delicate but occasionally gritty mussels arrive in a pool of dijon, tomato and saffron-spiked broth. A torchon of foie gras is presented with remarkably perfumed, toasted vanilla brioche. Capably prepared bistro classics are meat heavy, of course, including delectable black Angus strip loin with roquefort and salty frites. Though technically faultless, black cod is overwhelmed by the accompanying grilled portobello. A gracious server recommends a disappointing pumpkin cheesecake with a crust so tough it demands both hands to chisel with a fork. Mains $21–$42.
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