Few Paris bistro meals ever end with fresher-from-the-oven, more buttery madeleines than Biff’s. The look is right, too, the table spacing generous, the clientele classifiable only by its worldliness. Fork-tender rack of lamb is served with herbed gnocchi; less salt would improve an otherwise dandy skate wing served with mixed legumes, lemon and herbs. But fricasseeing escargots with lardon, brandy and toasted brioche turns a bistro cliché around the buoy and into a new millennium. Frites with rouille and a prix fixe menu (two courses $28.95) will comfort traditionalists. Mains $21–$36.