In the shadows of such Front Street mammoths as the Sony Centre and Union Station, a tiny sign and discreet entrance help to hide this eight-year-old gem. But search and ye shall find a little cog in the well-oiled Oliver & Bonacini empire. It has a starchy, corporate feel, with servers sporting long aprons and black ties, but the kitchen delivers unadulterated ooh-la-la. Upscale bistro fare rules a long menu that lists such standards as steak frites, duck confit and mussels. There are also a few surprises, like roast suckling pig and Cumbrae lamb shank. Filet mignon is perched on yukon gold potatoes, with droplets of herbed oil and gravy complementing each bite. Even the sides stand out: green beans and semoule (a French take on polenta) is rich with raclette cheese. Roasted almond ice cream takes chocolate torte to new heights. More than two dozen wines are available by the glass and carafe. Mains $21–$34.