Simplicity, generosity and value are the hallmarks of any hallowed neighbourhood institution. Alice’s (named after the owner’s daughter, not the Arlo Guthrie song) is aiming for that status. Though the humdrum gunmetal grey decor hardly radiates warmth, chef John Pekka Woods, formerly of North 44° and Montreal’s Toqué, brightens palates with straightforward flavours wrought from local, seasonal ingredients. An asparagus salad—grilled al dente spears, crisp baby arugula and garlicky tomato confit—is the height of summer’s freshness. Crab cakes are neither breaded nor fried (or even cakes for that matter); two small cylinders of sweet shredded crabmeat are browned, drizzled with an orange reduction and parsley oil, and scattered with salty capers and baby cornichon slices—a refreshing rewrite of an old pub standard. An outstanding 12-ounce Alberta rib-eye is perfect: crusted outside, just salty enough and juicy throughout. Homemade desserts are excellent, especially a dense pound cake with a heart of gooey rhubarb compote that’s pure summer pleasure. Kudos for a VQA wine list, young, eager service and biodegradable takeout containers. Mains $17–$32.