Aubergine and yellow decor enlivens the long, narrow room while the mature local crowd, which forms the backbone of the clientele, enjoys the casual sophistication of smooth service, mellow music and a menu of safe, familiar dishes that quietly recall Cal-Ital of the late 1980s. Juicy, plump firecracker shrimp are wrapped in oily phyllo and set over a salad of frisée, avocado and too little onion; dressed with sweet and sour sauce and balsamic, the dish ends up decidedly sweet. Mains zero in on the big protein: a generous rack of lamb, perhaps, the lean chops cooked medium rare and paired with chive-infused mashed potatoes and a rich tomato-basil jus. Phyllo-wrapped salmon is succulent enough, but the fish is pale and outclassed by accompanying jerusalem artichoke purée. Predictable desserts include an apple–sour cream torte served with warm rum sauce and Gelato Fresco’s vanilla ice cream. Macho red wines dominate a decently priced list. Mains $20–$39.