Restaurants GuideAmerican

Phil’s Original BBQ

Reviewed by Toronto Life
  • 838 College St. (at Ossington) View on map »
  • 416-532-8161
Editorial Review

How can food this good be this cheap? Of course, chef-owner Phil Nyman says he doesn’t work very hard; he just rubs some spices onto his chicken, ribs, pork shoulders and beef briskets and lets hours of woodsmoke do the rest. The juicy pulled pork shoulder is his masterpiece, although his ribs—dry (sauce on the side) or wet (pre-slathered)—run a close second. Nothing shabby, mind, about the chicken or brisket; they’re just not nirvana. Sour coleslaw is even less transcendent—the flaw that makes the beauty. The beans may look like Heinz, but they’ve seen serious, sensitive spicing. The surprise is the cachapa, a sort of omelette-pancake made with puréed sweet corn folded over melting mozzarella. It’s Venezuelan, like Gloria (a.k.a. Mrs. Phil), but a perfect foil for the smoky meat.

  • Closed Sunday
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