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RestaurantsAmerican

Caplansky’s star½ [?]

Reviewed by Toronto LifeBe warned, this isn’t a place for a light meal. It’s an old-school deli where people go to fuel up on such heavy-hitting snacks as excellent deep-fried pickles in cornmeal batter, and superb knishes with mashed potatoes and smoked meat, in a pool of smoky gravy. Sandwiches are the heart of the deli, and here the luscious smoked meat is the best in the city. Entrées are hit-and-miss. Fried chicken with maple syrup offers up addictive, crispy skin and juicy meat. Meatloaf falls flat with a crumbly texture and an overwhelmingly salty, sweet tomato sauce. It’s served with watery mash and burnt grilled vegetables, neither of which helps the dish. Desserts lean on the classics but need work: cheesecake is too dense and a cherry sauce tastes like chemicals, while chocolate bread pudding doesn’t have much flavour at all. Service is fine but too chummy—the waiter jokingly asks if anyone has “found a finger in their meal.” Good local beers on tap. Mains $13–$25

  • map marker #1
    365 College St. (at Brunswick Ave.)
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