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The Burger’s Priest $30 Gourmet [?]

Reviewed by Toronto LifeThe battle for the city’s best basic burger just got more heated. The loosely packed, hand-formed, griddle-fried, cooked-to-medium burgers at this tiny Catholic-kitsch place on a dead strip of Queen East have a legitimate claim. They’re gloriously simple: Alberta beef that’s ground in-house a few times a day, plus soft, exquisitely insubstantial buns that can be accessorized in any of the old-school ways. (If you want caramelized passion fruit, you’d best look at a heathen establishment.) The double cheeseburger is a juicy, delicious mess. The Option—made from two roasted portobello mushroom caps sandwiching a mix of grated cheeses, rolled in panko and then decadently deep-fried—is the city’s first lust-worthy veggie burger. The Pope is a double cheeseburger, plus The Option, all on a single bun. (It is also a death wish, in case you were wondering.) The hand-cut fries are decent; the chili cheese fries are great but should come with a jug of Maalox. As for the name, the proprietor, a former seminary student who hails from California and grew up on In-N-Out burgers, claims to be “redeeming the hamburger one customer at a time.” They’ve even installed confessional privacy screens in place of sneeze guards. Cheesy, yes. But that’s sort of the point. Unlicensed. Cash only.

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