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Manyata star½ star good
star star very good
star star star excellent
star star star star extraordinary
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Reviewed by Toronto Life
  • 55 Avenue Rd. (at Yorkville Ave.), Hazel­ton Lanes View on map »
  • 416-935-0000
Editorial Review

For lunch, Sunday brunch and afternoon tea, the two-storey courtyard in Hazelton Lanes becomes Manyata (Kiswahili for “meeting place”), a genteel arena favoured by elderly ladies who lunch. The menu suits them: a list of pretty dishes that sound much more global and exotic than they taste. Saku tuna salad lamu style, for instance, is three islands of accessible flavour posed on heart-shaped leaves: a mound of shredded wakame, a heap of pickled daikon and ginger, and two pepper-crusted wedges of tuna cooked to pink with a milky miso dressing. Pizza of the day might burden a thin, crisp, slightly overcooked crust with yummy smoked salmon, goat cheese, pesto and chopped sweet peppers. Kikuyu chicken pot pie places dainty discs of puff pastry over a yellow coconut and lemon grass curry of tender chicken, potato and cauliflower, served piping hot. Desserts are nothing short of outstanding, as in a rum banana bread pudding oozing luxe flavours. Servers are charming, if inexperienced. Mains $12–$22.

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