Not only is Paris one of the prettiest towns in southern Ontario, perched on the banks of the Grand River, it has also played a large role in the Canadian literary imagination. The Arlington Hotel appears in Michael Ondaatje’s In the Skin of a Lion, while the socially stratified neighbourhoods of the former mill town are immortalized in John Bemrose’s novel The Island Walkers. The once-famous textile mill is gone, but the town maintains a strong sense of history with a preserved 19th-century main street. Although many of the old plaster homes are now covered with siding, there is still plenty of curious cobblestone architecture evident in buildings such as Paris Plains Church. Standing authoritatively at the centre of the main street for more than 150 years is the historic Arlington Hotel (519-442-1019, 1-877-833-9083). An afternoon is well spent lingering in coffee shops, such as the Café de Paris (519-442-3233), with its pretty riverside terrace. To explore the river up close, take a canoe or kayak trip with Grand Experiences Canoe and Kayak Outfitters (1-888-258-0441). Shopping is surprisingly good for a small village of just 10,000; Arts & Treasures of the Grand (519-442-4431) is one of the top places to browse, with offerings from more than 65 local artists. The River Lily gift shop (519-442-6000) is notable as the site where Alexander Graham Bell took the long-distance phone call from his father in 1876. It’s about a 15-minute drive to the gracious Glenhyrst Art Gallery of Brant (519-756-5932), known for its contemporary art and 16 acres of outstanding gardens.