No one ages cheese better than the Pristine family, which is why so many of their creations appear on menus around the city. Aged in the shop’s candlelit cave, the current big seller is epoisse, a creamy, smelly cheese that originated in Burgundy. The parmigiano-reggiano is another standout: aged 52 months, it’s fruitier and more complex than most of the wedges you can buy in Italy. But cheese is only 40 per cent of the business: triple-A steaks are aged to tender, gamy effect; sausages are custom-created for restaurants (as well as 12 varieties for customers). It’s also the place to find the muskiest truffles, the best deals on olive oil and an amazing range of peppercorns, from white Muntok to Indian red.