A dainty yet intricately moulded fish-shaped cake immediately draws the eye. It seems as if it should be stuffed with something appropriately aquatic, so it’s a surprise when the first bite reveals a sweetened paste made from red beans, a satisfyingly starchy filling. Think jelly meets legume pâté and you wouldn’t be far off. Hodo Kwaja is best known for its walnut cakes, which are best described as a dryer, denser Korean take on the Timbit. The cakes themselves are less impressive than the efficient production-line method of making them. Instead try the brown sugar pancake: a hot-griddled treat bejewelled with peanuts. Hidden layers of oozing brown sugar make for a messy but pleasant snack time. Don’t let the laid-back atmosphere fool you—service is quick and welcoming.