The ladies in the back of the shop are frying up delectable Salvadoran-style pupusas, slapping the cornmeal dough in time to the Latin music that winds softly through this 40-year-old emporium. Once a pioneer purveyor of imported Latin American groceries, serving a small immigrant community, it has become part of the fabric of the city—the place you go if you want fresh cactus, Mexican salsas, a jar of huge lupin beans, fresh tamales or frozen banana leaves. Strange-sounding malt drinks and cans of South American pop stand beside a variety of candies and marinades.