This grande dame of spas recently unveiled the results of a multi-million-dollar make-over, and the place is practically unrecognizable. From the hotel-like lobby, all limestone and cherrywood dotted with Thai artifacts, the spa rises up four floors, making it one of the city’s largest. A lack of privacy is the downside to this sprawling spa—you’re likely to encounter a waffle-robed patron in the elevator—but weekdays are generally quiet. Try the Li’Tya Mala Mayi ($210), a 90-minute body buffing that includes aromatic oil and salt exfoliation, a warm mud wrap, and a scalp and Miji Kodo massage.