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The Black Hoof’s Berkshire pork–shoulder tacos
Toronto’s best taco gets a lot of love before it arrives on the plate: the pork is cured in annatto seeds, slow braised, shredded, simmered in pork fat and then finished with a dash of bitter orange. On top, there’s a dollop of lime-kissed guac and airy-light chicharrones (i.e., glorified pork rinds). $11. 928 Dundas St. W., 416-551-8854.
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The Combine’s basa tacos
One of the city’s new gastropubs makes killer California-style tacos with freshly fried, cornmeal-crusted cat fish. Lime crema, pico de gallo, tangy slaw and cilantro top it off. $15. 162 Danforth Ave., 416-792-8088.
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The Drake Café’s cod tacos
Chunks of fish get soaked in buttermilk and dipped in cornmeal to create a fried chicken–like crust. Chunky guacamole, shaved cabbage, crème fraîche and cilantro perfect the crackling bundle. $13. 1150 Queen St. W., 416-531-5042.
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El Jacal’s chorizo tacos
The secret to really good chorizo tacos is house-made sausage. El Jacal’s is ground with guajillo, morita and chipotle peppers for extra kick. Oozing mozzarella adds a blanket of richness. $9.75. 1056 Bloor St. W., 416-244-4447.
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Milagro’s taquito rosaritos
Biting into this one, you get the snap of sautéed shrimp followed by the silkiness of refried beans, crema and a slice of avocado. A side of hot tomatillo-chili salsa shoots through it all like a Taser. $11.25. 783 Queen St. W., 416-366-2855.
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Rebozo’s beef tongue tacos
The meat, boiled and then sautéed, is garlicky and ridiculously supple. It doesn’t need any fancy dressing—just onion, cilantro and a dash of jalapeño—j tomatillo sauce. $8.50. 126 Rogers Rd., 416-658-5001.
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The Harbord Room’s Japanese tacos
Cured in Japanese seven-spice powder, cooked sous-vide, glazed with soy-mirin sauce and tossed with pickled mushrooms, radishes, coriander seeds, fried nori, shiso cream, avocado and ginger, this taco has more accessories than Nicki Minaj. $14. 89 Harbord St., 416-962-8989.
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El Trompo’s tacos al pastor
Pork is marinated with annatto seeds, chipotles, cumin and cinnamon, then roasted on a vertical spit, like Mexican shawarma. The meat is tender and sweet, served with canned pineapple, raw onion and cilantro. $9.75. 277 Augusta Ave., 416-260-0097.
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Flavour of the Month: Into the Fold