Wrap Artists
A resto-lounge’s take on the taco and the real deal By Eric Vellend
From Burrito Boyz to Big Fat Burrito, there seems to be endless purveyors of Mexico’s missile of meat, beans and cheese. But with taquerias popping up all over the city, the oft-forgotten taco—the burrito’s corn-based cousin—is finally earning its props. Here, two vastly different tacos that don’t require a run for the border.
High
MARBEN: Duck confit tacos, $12
488 Wellington St. W.,
416-979‑1990
When conceiving the two-bite tacos for Marben, chef Craig
Alley first had to order a pair of
taco tongs, a V-shaped instrument
that holds the miniature tortillas
in place as they fry in hot canola oil. The crisp pockets are then stuffed with zippy ancho aïoli, crunchy napa slaw and succulent shreds
of citrus-cured duck confit. A side
of house-made salsa cuts through the richness of the duck and hits
all the right cuminy notes.
Low
LA TORTILLERIA: Tinga taco, $6.50
68 Wales Ave., 416-546-5516
As Toronto’s only producer of fresh corn tortillas, La Tortilleria cranks out 6,000 a day for wholesale, retail and their own tempting tacos. Originally from Mexico City, owners Axel Arvizu and Juan Roman keep the fixings muy auténtico. The popular Tinga finds a soft crêpe smeared with refried black beans and folded around red rice, shredded chicken and caramelized onion. Red (tomato) and green (tomatillo) salsas pack a tangy punch of chili heat.
Photographs by Robert Gagnon
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