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Wholly Cow
A young chef with a love of butchery strikes out on his own
Steaking a claim: locally sourced, dry-aged-tri-tip
with preserved spring garlic and summer veg
Image credit: Christopher Stevenson
As ascents to culinary stardom go, Mark Cutrara’s was fairly meteoric. Plucked from a sous position at the Silver Spoon, last fall he opened the Danforth’s Globe Bistro to great acclaim, earning well-deserved praise for his smarts and sensitivity at the stove and for his commitment to showcasing the very best from local suppliers. Then, just as quickly, it seemed, he’d left. Cowbell (1564 Queen St. W., 416-849-1095; opening planned for July), the chef’s new venture on Queen West West, should prove more lasting. Invigorated by a stint as an apprentice at the Healthy Butcher last winter, Cutrara plans an ever-changing menu of nose-to-tail classics (he’ll do his own butchery in-house), fresh Ontario lake fish and local organic produce— “simple bistro food done well,” he says. And don’t expect a backlit onyx bar or a bevy of short-skirted hostesses. “We didn’t want to do the Restaurant Makeover look—that’s what everybody’s doing.” A star is reborn.
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