Illustration by Brian Rea;
Photographs of wine by Carmen Cheung

Among the LCBO’s general listings, Chilean red wines are in a class of their own. The dark cabernets, shirazes and merlots ooze berry flavours and roll across the palate with a polished texture. While vintners partly have the sunny climate to thank for the characteristic richness, the finesse is a man-made feat: Chile is on the cutting edge when it comes to precision viticulture. Moisture sensors in the soil and GPS technologies are allowing vintners to track weather systems, apply exact amounts of water and pick grapes at perfect ripeness—almost on a vine-by-vine basis.

Winemakers in other hot, irrigated regions from Australia to the Okanagan are using similar approaches, but in Chile one varietal—carmenère, a temperamental, late-ripening grape—is proving a unique beneficiary. Brought over from Bordeaux in the mid–19th century along with its cabernet sauvignon and merlot cousins, carmenère grew alongside merlot until ampelographers (vine-identification specialists) ran DNA tests in the mid-1990s. Early carmenère bottlings were marred by an underripe green, even spinachy note. But once vintners realized that the grape took longer to ripen and began cultivating it more carefully (satellites and sensors helped gauge maturity), a new profile emerged. With blackcurrant notes, a rich and dense mid-palate smoothness, soft tannin and extraordinary flavour concentration, carmenère is rapidly becoming Chile’s signature grape. And as a relative unknown, the wine remains hugely undervalued. The Wines of Chile event in the Distillery District on October 7 offers a chance for sampling. Or, for home experimentation, here are some good bargains at the LCBO.

Concha Y Toro 2007 Winemaker’s Lot 148 Carmenère
$16.95 | Rapel Valley | 90 points
From a single vineyard called Las Pataguas, this is a fantastic example of carmenère, with a deep inky hue and aromas of cassis, coffee and chorizo. It’s full bodied, with a hint of mid-palate sweetness before a dry, tannic finish. A bit rugged, so tuck it away for a few years. Pair with rich game. Vintages. LCBO 30957.

CARMENÈRES

MontGras Reserva 2008 Carmenère
$12.95 | Colchagua Valley | 88 points
Colchagua is fast becoming Chile’s best red wine area, and winemaker Hernán Gras (formerly of Niagara’s Brights) is well situated with prime mid-valley land. He has crafted an unbelievably dense, rich and smooth red. Pours deep black, with a billowing nose of youthful, almost overripe cassis-mulberry that’s scented with lilac. Vintages. LCBO 960542.

Santa Alicia 2007 Carmenère Reserve
$11.95 | Maipo Valley | 84 points
The LCBO’s best-selling carmenère has cedar, graphite, tobacco and dried-currant aromas that’s reminiscent of bordeaux. It’s mid-weight and slightly sweet, yet finishes with a dusty dried-herb finish. LCBO 309302.

Terra Andina 2008 Carmenère
$11.95 | Central Valley | 86 points
An intense wine for the money, Terra Andina’s carmenère shows extreme ripeness: this is almost like Italian amarone, with heady notes of dried cherry, salami, licorice and clove. It’s full bodied and tannic, with a sourish edge, but packing all kinds of flavour. Vinta­ges. LCBO 127522.

Viña Tarapacá 2007 Reserva Carmenère
$12.85 | Maipo Valley | 85 points
Under the direction of California winemaker Ed Flaherty, this massive 600-hectare estate vineyard is making the transition from producing rugged reds to wines with a more modern, lush style. The 2007 carmenère has dense texture but still leans to green flavours, with cooked spinach and pepper notes. Very concentrated, with a spicy finish. LCBO 64436.

OTHER REDS

Caliterra 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva
$11.90 | Colchagua Valley | 87 points
Advanced technology is enabling more vineyards to go organic. In a price range with so many pale imitations, Caliterra’s organic cabernet offers good value. It’s mid-weight and smooth, with chalky tannin, notes of black­currant, juniper and oak, plus herbal and mineral flavours on the finish. LCBO 257329.

Concha Y Toro Casillero del Diablo
2008 Malbec
$12.95 | Rapel Valley | 88 points
The mainstay of Argentina, malbec is a newcomer to Chile. This LCBO listing exemplifies the exuberant floral and blackberry notes and suppleness of young malbec. Along with tar and chocolate from oak aging, there’s a velvety feel on the long finish. LCBO 94060.

Montes Alpha 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
$21.95 | Colchagua Valley | 90 points
Montes Alpha’s incredibly lush cabernet sauvignon is saturated with black cherry, chocolate and clove flavours. Typical for the region, there isn’t a hint of greenness. It’s full and smooth, with youthful gritty tannin, so lay it away a couple of years and enjoy through 2015. Excellent flavour length. LCBO 322586.

Pérez Cruz 2007 Cabernet
Sauvignon Reserva
$14.75 | Maipo Valley | 88 points
Grown in the rocky Andean foothill soils, this one has a unique thick texture. In addition to ripe blackcurrant aromatics, there are mineral and lead pencil notes. Destined to age well for a decade, but surprisingly drinkable now. Vintages. LCBO 694208.

Tabalí 2007 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon
$14.95 | Limarí Valley | 89 points
The Limarí Valley, on the edge of the Atacama Desert, is generating considerable excitement and investment. This silky cabernet has fine tannin and classic blackcurrant, sage, pepper and leather notes. Good integration and length, for drinking now or cellaring up to 10 years. Vintages. LCBO 58446.