Gordon Mackie, Four’s executive chef, is out to prove that dining doesn’t have to entail belt-loosening gluttony or joyless self-denial. No dish at Bay Street’s newest hot spot has more than 650 calories—meaning you can eat your cake (and main and app) and still feel a certain ascetic smugness. Mackie steams, bakes, smokes and spices his way to flavour. But does he toe that thin line in his own kitchen?

What inspired you to open a diet-conscious place?
When you’re in a competitive market, you want to have a compelling attribute—this is Four’s compelling thing.

What was the biggest challenge in devising the menu?
Being conscious of fat, like in vinaigrettes. Did you know a caesar salad has more calories than a steak? We’ve had to adjust the amount of oil and use other things, like shallots or xanthan gum.

Are there any ingredients you miss working with?
Foie gras and butter—I don’t use them at all. Cream. All those naughty things that are easy.

Have you ever dieted?
No, I gravitate toward a food, then eat it until I’m sick of it. Right now I’m binging on fruit. I’ll eat something like four grapefruit, six oranges and seven apples a day.

Seriously?
Yeah. In the morning and when I get home at night. I’ve also been a massive cereal eater.

But what’s your guilty pleasure?
I love pork fat and bacon. I love lobster, which goes hand in hand with butter. And cheese, a lot. Before I have fruit, I’ll have some cheese and crackers.