Not long ago, Prince Edward County was known mainly for its beaches. But the bucolic county has recently become fashionable with foodies. The trend started eight years ago, when farmers discovered that their land—spread over a fertile peninsula south of Belleville—was suitable for growing vinifera grapes. City slickers who dreamed of owning a vineyard descended, and wineries and restaurants soon followed (for a map of the Taste Trail, call 613-393-2796 or www.tastetrail.ca).

While comparisons to Niagara are premature, the county’s wineries are coming on strong. Most are open for visitors on summer weekdays, and on weekends the rest of the year. One of the grandest is the Grange of Prince Edward Estate Winery (990 Closson Rd., Hillier, 613-399-1048). Surrounded by rolling farmland, it is worth a visit for the scenery alone, but the wine is impressive, too: its 2003 gamay noir won the county’s very first Ontario Wine Award in 2005.

In contrast to the Grange’s grandeur, By Chadsey’s Cairns Winery and Vineyard (17432 Loyalist Pkwy., Wellington, 613-399-2992) is a charming, rustic boutique winery. During the harvest, volunteers can pick grapes in return for a hearty lunch with wine.

In the centre of the county on the Loyalist Parkway is Black Prince Winery (13370 Loyalist Pkwy., Picton, 613-476-4888, 1-866-470-9463). It has two claims to fame: its 2004 chardonnay and its medieval jousting competition, held each June.

Long Dog Vineyard & Winery (104 Brewers Rd., Milford, 613-476-4140), a tiny gem, is renowned for its pinot gris, but its tasting room is not always open; call before you set out. Waupoos Estates Winery (3016 County Rd. 8, Picton, 613-476-8338) lacks sophistication in the wine department, but its idyllic scenery is the real deal: the restaurant has tranquil views of vineyards sloping down to Lake Ontario.

At the County Cider Company (RR 4, Picton, 613-476-1022), local apples are pressed into a premium sparkling cider and served at the tasting counter. Those who prefer to eat their fruit can pick 25 different varieties of apples at Orchard Coast Farms (2983 County Rd. 8, Waupoos, 613-476-6458). On Saturday mornings, fresh cheddar curds lure mobs of visitors to the Black River Cheese company in Milford (913 County Rd. 13, RR 2, 613-476-2575).

For a smorgasbord of county fare, head to Taste! A Celebration of Regional Cuisine (Oct. 7). Held on the Picton fairgrounds in a Victorian crystal palace, it’s an annual showcase for local producers and restaurants.

Historic Picton may be the commercial hub, but quaint Bloomfield boasts the prettiest main street in the county. At Slickers Ice Cream parlour (only open in summer, 271 Main St., no phone), local fruits and cream are combined into stellar flavours, such as cantaloupe.

For accommodation, see Angéline’s, Claramount Inn & Spa, Devonshire Inn on the Lake and Merrill Inn. For fine dining, foodies go to Angéline’s, the Bloomfield Carriage House (260 Main St., Bloomfield, 613-393-1087), Merrill Inn and the Milford Bistro (106 Bridge St., Milford, 613-476-6763).