Lowly, luscious poutine has reached unprecedented gastronomical heights in the hands of some of the city’s top chefs. Incorporating foie gras, rabbit confit, lobster and pulled pork, these adaptations are off the charts in cholesterol, but who’s counting? Here are the best of a hedonistic bunch and, on a scale of one to five, whether they’re worth dying for.

CAFÉ DU LAC
Brie-thickened chicken velouté, fries, Fromagerie Perron curds and maple-braised black Angus short ribs are crowned with a slab of Quebec foie gras and a veal jus glaze. Bring on the defibrillator. $21. 2350 Lake Shore Blvd. W., 416-848-7381.

BYMARK
This lobster poutine is stupid good. Frites are tossed with butter-braised, vermouth-kissed Atlantic lobster and slathered in béarnaise. Such luxe unorthodoxy is worth the price. $25.95.

GILEAD CAFÉ
Chef Jamie Kennedy’s ironic cheeseburger poutine features his famous frites in a luscious beef jus, with tangy raw-milk cheese, scallions, fresh thyme and a juicy, three-ounce mini-burger on top. A delicious edible joke. $8.

REDS BISTRO AND BAR
Big chunks of tender pulled pork bring smokiness to a pile of fries, squeaky, fresh Fromagerie Perron curds and a slightly gummy roux-based gravy. This is a near perfect poutine. $11.

AMUSE-BOUCHE
A deboned rabbit leg confit is rolled around deep-fried Monforte sheep’s milk cheese alongside a nest of matchstick frites, crème fraîche and cheese curds. Poutine has never looked so haute, but it tastes a bit twee. $15.

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