Restaurant Guide 2008
March 2008
Toronto’s Best Restaurant Trends
From meat to molecules, the trends in restaurant dining are producing some stand-out meals at Toronto restaurants By Rob Mifsud
Cava
Image credit: Jim Norton
1. Nose-to-tail. No longer do fans of nose-to-tail eating have to rely on Toronto’s many ethnic restaurants for an escape from the meat monopoly. Tender, meekly flavoured chops and steaks will always have their place, of course, but artfully prepared, fuller-flavoured variety and organ meats, such as trotters, sweetbreads and tongue are just as satisfying at a fraction of the price. Chefs like Albert Ponzo at Le Sélect Bistro are muscling their way in to this once-forbidden territory by serving such rediscovered classics as boudin noir—a rich, subtly spiced blood sausage with caramelized apples and potato rösti.
2. Charcuterie. Before blood sausage there was just plain old sausage, and only a handful of meat pioneers such as Michael Stadtländer at Eigensinn Farm and Chris McDonald at Cava. In just a few short years, they and other charcuterie evangelists have converted an increasing number of diners and chefs to the wisdom of their ways. Homemade charcuterie is no longer a niche market; it’s a menu staple. Creatively treated meats are now featured prominently in the culinary repertoire of such hot spots as Lucien, where Scot Woods showcases his handcrafted mortadella, duck prosciutto and elk bresaola.
3. Eating local. Fuelled by the rise of the Slow Food movement and the explosive popularity of Michael Pollan’s The Omnivore’s Dilemma, the emergence of local eating—a.k.a. locavorism—has raised our collective awareness about the importance of supporting local, sustainable, responsible and organic agriculture. Chef Jamie Kennedy epitomizes this shift in outlook, offering menus at Jamie Kennedy Wine Bar and Jamie Kennedy at the Gardiner that reflect the best of the season and the region.
4. Molecular gastronomy. The molecular gastronomy revolution that began at Spain’s el Bulli restaurant has found a welcoming home here in Toronto. Leading local practitioners, such as Claudio Aprile at Colborne Lane and Guy Rubino at Rain, test the limits of food, experimenting with novel techniques and ingredients that dazzle while also accentuating texture and taste. Aprile builds a better ice cream—tableside, no less—with liquid nitrogen, while Rubino crafts meltingly tender sous-vide duck breast using a thermal immersion circulator and a vacuum sealer.
5. The Cheese course. Everything old is new again, as the cheese course returns to dessert menus across Toronto. Chefs are taking advantage of the trend by showcasing many fabulous Canadian cheeses, as well as their own creativity. At Bistro Bakery Thuet, Marc Thuet riffs on fromage with an ethereal sucrée of munster: the pungent French classic is blanketed by delicate, golden pastry and dusted with icing sugar.








