One Good Apple
The ad hoc creation of Barberian's cult classic By Claire Tansey
Image credit: Finn O'Hara
Not just a couple of doughnuts, these are apple beignets, a Toronto steak house classic that came about as a solution to a restaurateur’s predicament. Back in 1959, when the up-and-coming Barberian’s was the place to be on Leafs game nights, it had neither the space nor the guaranteed clientele to keep a supply of cakes and pies on hand. Harry Barberian needed a credible dessert that the kitchen could whip up from common pantry staples; he thought of beignets, which he had seen in New York. Suave presentation and made-to-order freshness turned the humble fruit fritter into something upmarket. As Harry’s son Arron, now the owner, says, “It’s simple, easy to prepare for two or for 200, truly a little delicacy.” The response to a fledgling need became a Barberian’s signature, one that has been on the menu almost as long as the steaks and shrimp cocktail.
Barberian’s, 7 Elm St., 416-597-0335.
TEST Originally published April 2006
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